An Antique Parasol Acquisition: Part Two

In the previous post, I shared pictures of the first of two antique parasols I recently purchased on ebay with plans to recover them at some point.  This is the second parasol, quite different from the other.  Based on extant examples I've sorted through in several museum collections, I think this one dates to about 1880-1905.  The dealer listed it as circa 1900, so that's pretty consistent with what I've found in my own research.

The unique feature of this parasol is the handle, which is twisted wood (I think).  It is painted black and the paint has chipped in a couple of places, but nothing too significant and I'll probably choose to leave this original finish in place when I recover it.

The top half of the canopy is black silk; the bottom half is a black net that is overlaid with very wide black lace that hangs over the sides by about 7 inches.  Both the silk and the lace have rotted considerably.  When I purchased it based on the ebay listing pictures, I hoped I might be able to save the lace, but alas, it arrived in much worse condition than it appeared.  Disappointing, to be sure, but it isn't a huge deal.

The long tip is surrounded by a tiny little lace ruffle gathered around it.

The interior details of this piece are similar to those of the first parasol.  A small circular disc of fabric (it's hard to tell what it is because it's disintegrating as well) covers the joints of the mechanism.

We still haven't decided yet what kind of or what color fabric we'd like to use to recover these two pieces.  Any ideas?!  :-)

Fashions from Godey's Lady's Book, July 1853

As we mentioned in the first post in this series, we recently stumbled across a bound volume of Godey's Lady's Book from 1853. Once a month, I'll post the collection of fashion-related plates and articles that appeared in each monthly issue. You can find the previous months here.

I apologize in advance for the quality of the images. Although I have a scanner, I've discovered that there's no way I can preserve the integrity of the already fragile binding of the book and lay it flat. That means photos are the only options, and even those are difficult to achieve because of the tightly bound pages. I've done my best to ensure that everything is as clear and visible and undistorted as possible, but if there's something you really can't read or see and would like to have clarified, just let me know and I'll see what more I can do. I've set the images up so that if you click on them, they'll link you to their flickr page, where you'll be able to enlarge them all considerably and thus more easily read each one. Enjoy!

Fig. 1st. - Dress of queen's brocade, the pattern being a rich grouping of natural flowers, wrought with a lifelike richness of imitation.  The shade is the favorite lemon color, which admits only of blue in trimming and decoration.  The richness of the silk requires little additional ornament, the stomacher of blue ribbon knots, which extends around the opening of the basque and is repeated on the sleeves, being all.  A headdress of the same, in close rosettes, and a suit of Honiton or Mechlin lace in frills, completes the costume.

Fig. 2nd. - Evening-dress, very simply and girlish, a lace robe over a delicate rose-colored silk slip; the skirt of the robe is edged with shallow scallops, and confined at the waist by a sash tied in front.  The slightly pointed berthe of the corsage is edged with two rows of narrow lace, the same running around the neck and sleeves.  Bracelets of coral, carved in imitation of roses; a band and knot of rich rose-colored ribbon confines a bouquet of blush roses to the left.  The hair is arranged very simply, waved over the forehead, and gathered into a mass of braids behind, where it is upheld by pins, no comb being visible.

Four muslin chemisettes.

An invalid's cap; a dress cap for dinner or

evening; muslin undersleeves.

Crochet vase to cover a flower pot.

Continuation of the vase pattern; two patterns for embroidery.

Patterns for an infant's cap; netting pattern.

Diagram for boy's dress.

If you'd like to use or re-post or share these images, you're certainly welcome to do so. The only thing we ask is that credit is given where due: please provide a link back to this blog with the re-posted picture. Thanks!

Fashions from Godey's Lady's Book, June 1853

It's that time again!  We apologize for neglecting these montly postings for December, January, and February, but we haven't forgotten them and now they're back, just in time for springtime sewing projects!

As we mentioned in the first post in this series, we recently stumbled across a bound volume of Godey's Lady's Book from 1853. Once a month, I'll post the collection of fashion-related plates and articles that appeared in each monthly issue. You can find the previous months here.

I apologize in advance for the quality of the images. Although I have a scanner, I've discovered that there's no way I can preserve the integrity of the already fragile binding of the book and lay it flat. That means photos are the only options, and even those are difficult to achieve because of the tightly bound pages. I've done my best to ensure that everything is as clear and visible and undistorted as possible, but if there's something you really can't read or see and would like to have clarified, just let me know and I'll see what more I can do. I've set the images up so that if you click on them, they'll link you to their flickr page, where you'll be able to enlarge them all considerably and thus more easily read each one. Enjoy!

Fig. 1st. - Morning-dress of pink barege, under a slip of white embroidered jaconet cambric, made short, to display the scallops.  Pink girdle, fastened by a small gold clasp.  Garden hat of white chip, with rose-colored ribbons, and a knot of blush roses and foliage each side the face.

Fig. 2nd. - Walking-dress of pale green silk, barred with a raised satin stripe.  The skirt in four flounces, set on with a cord, and edged with wide, shallow scallops, trimmed with close double fringe.  The waist short and slightly full, a style revived the present summer.  Sleeves open, demi-long; deep collar.  Cottage bonnet of white split straw, with wreaths of green leaves.

Embroidered skirt, to be paired with the cambric basque that follows.

Cambric basque or sacque; cape and canezou.

On broiderie anglaise.

Two caps, one a sontag cap of lace and ribbon, and the other
an evening cap of lace with a Marie Stuart front.

Children's fashions for June.

Crochet elastic braces, detailed in the pattern that begins in
the image above and continues onto the two pages below.

If you'd like to use or re-post or share these images, you're certainly welcome to do so. The only thing we ask is that credit is given where due: please provide a link back to this blog with the re-posted picture. Thanks!

Fashions from Godey's Lady's Book, May 1853

It's that time again! As we mentioned in the first post in this series, we recently stumbled across a bound volume of Godey's Lady's Book from 1853. Once a month, I'll post the collection of fashion-related plates and articles that appeared in each monthly issue. You can find the previous months here.

I apologize in advance for the quality of the images. Although I have a scanner, I've discovered that there's no way I can preserve the integrity of the already fragile binding of the book and lay it flat. That means photos are the only options, and even those are difficult to achieve because of the tightly bound pages. I've done my best to ensure that everything is as clear and visible and undistorted as possible, but if there's something you really can't read or see and would like to have clarified, just let me know and I'll see what more I can do. I've set the images up so that if you click on them, they'll link you to their flickr page, where you'll be able to enlarge them all considerably and thus more easily read each one. Enjoy!

An embroidered note case and a hair net.  T

he pattern for the former is included in the fourth

image; the latter is in the seventh.

 

Fig. 1st. - Walking dress of violet-colored silk, the skirt trimmed with three graduated flounces.  The flounces are of moderate fullness, and edged by a trimming in scallops, they being inverted; that is, laid flat upon the flounce, instead of edging it.  The corsage is a basque and gilet, the first of silk, and trimmed to correspond with the skirt, having a rolling collar, and being fastened in front by three flat bows of thick satin-edged Mantua ribbon.  The vest, or gilet, comes close to the throat; it is of embroidered muslin, and fastened by small pearl or imitation opal studs, one in each scallop.  Bonnet of silk and crape a little lighter in hue, the brim is edged by narrow blonde and crape ruches, and ornamented only by a few white and Parma violets placed high up, and passing across the hair.  Small green parasol, lined with white Florence silk.

 

Fig. 2d. - Dinner-dress, the skirt of delicate rose-colored barege or mousseline, made full and plain.  Basque of white embroidered muslin, lined with very pale pink Florence silk.  Open in front, and edged by French muslin flouncing, in points of moderate width.  The sleeves are in a point on the forearm, and also edged with the flouncing, set on full like a ruffle, to avoid the necessity of under-sleeves.  Close chemisette of fine French work.  The back hair is arranged in a novel, yet classic and graceful style, smoothed into a broad band, which is upheld by a puff comb.  Front hair in light wavy bandeaux.  The whole dress is exceedingly simple and tasteful, the only ornament being a knot of rose-colored ribbon at the waist.

A dressing gown, to be made of white cambric.

Two bonnet-trimming ideas, one exterior and one interior.

A breakfast sacque of India muslin, for use as

morning wear in the summer months.

The "Louisa mantilla," of a dark sea-green silk,

trimmed with matching scalloped ribbon and heavy fringe.

The end of the pattern for knitted flowers, and the

instructions for the embroidered note case in the first image.

Patterns for embroidery and braiding.

Pattern for a knitting bag.

If you'd like to use or re-post or share these images, you're certainly welcome to do so. The only thing we ask is that credit is given where due: please provide a link back to this blog with the re-posted picture. Thanks!

Fashions from Godey's Lady's Book, April 1853

It's that time again! As we mentioned in the first post in this series, we recently stumbled across a bound volume of Godey's Lady's Book from 1853. Once a month, I'll post the collection of fashion-related plates and articles that appeared in each monthly issue. You can find the previous months here.

I apologize in advance for the quality of the images. Although I have a scanner, I've discovered that there's no way I can preserve the integrity of the already fragile binding of the book and lay it flat. That means photos are the only options, and even those are difficult to achieve because of the tightly bound pages. I've done my best to ensure that everything is as clear and visible and undistorted as possible, but if there's something you really can't read or see and would like to have clarified, just let me know and I'll see what more I can do. I've set the images up so that if you click on them, they'll link you to their flickr page, where you'll be able to enlarge them all considerably and thus more easily read each one. Enjoy!

"Fig. 1st. - Dress of mousseline, printed in a disposition pattern, the corsage, sleeves, and upper part of the skirt being plain, and the flounces in wreaths of spring flowers, in bright and tasteful grouping.  The sleeves are quite short, and edges with a bright brocade ribbon to correspond with the heading of the flounces.  The waist is in full folds from the shoulder to the girdle, which is also of brocade ribbon.  Straw bonnet, with a wreath of sweetbriar inside the brim.

Fig. 2d. - Walking-dress of camel's hair cashmere, a white ground, with small French-blue figure, simply a knot of leaves.  Small white mantilla, edged with gold-colored figured ribbon.  Bonnet of white crape and silk mixed with straw-colored satin ribbon.  A fold of blonde falls inside the brim, and is caught by delicate field flowers of white and straw color."

A crochet lady's bonnet, "suitable for the seaside or
country," and a flower mat.  See full descriptions and instructions
in the second, third, and fourth images below.

Boy's tunic dress and...

...the pattern for it.

Several patterns for embroidery.

If you'd like to use or re-post or share these images, you're certainly welcome to do so. The only thing we ask is that credit is given where due: please provide a link back to this blog with the re-posted picture. Thanks!

Current Exhibit: "The Victorian Wardrobe Revealed, 1840-1900"

I had hoped to be able to make it to see this exhibit before it closed, which was why I delayed posting about it for so long.  Now, unfortunately, it looks like I won't be able to get myself out to Newport in time, so I thought I'd just post the details anyway in case they prove useful to someone else!

Photo linked from Bostonusa.com.

Newport Mansions and the Preservation Society of Newport, RI are currently staging an exhibition featuring "The Victorian Wardrobe Revealed, 1840-1900," which showcases some rarely-seen items from the Society's extensive costume and textiles collection.  This exhibit, set up inside Rosecliff, one of the famed Newport Mansions, features ten gowns or ensembles, a couple of evening capes, and some accessories.  The garments are arranged to demonstrate the evolution of the female silhouette over the course of the nineteenth century, and to document the changes that occurred in the production and manufacturing process of women's clothing in nineteenth-century America.

Included in the exhibit as one of its highlights is an 1898 black and white striped Worth afternoon ensemble.  As this article explains, the gown underwent more than 300 hours of conservation work to restore and even replace many of the white stripes in the skirt, which had been nearly destroyed by water damage.

Charles Frederick Worth 1898 afternoon dress.

Photo by Andrea Carneiro.  Linked from newportri.com.

Also featured is this stunning sapphire blue silk satin dinner dress, dated 1875.

Blue 1875 silk satin evening gown.

Photo by Andrea Carneiro.  Linked from newportri.com.

Entrance to the exhibit is included in admission to the Rosecliff mansion house.  The gowns will be on display until Friday 16 November 2012.

If anyone has gone to see this exhibit, I'd be very intrigued to hear all about what you saw!

Fashions from Godey's Lady's Book, March 1853

It's that time again!  As we mentioned in the first post in this series, we recently stumbled across a bound volume of Godey's Lady's Book from 1853. Once a month, I'll post the collection of fashion-related plates and articles that appeared in each monthly issue.  You can find the previous months here.

I apologize in advance for the quality of the images. Although I have a scanner, I've discovered that there's no way I can preserve the integrity of the already fragile binding of the book and lay it flat. That means photos are the only options, and even those are difficult to achieve because of the tightly bound pages. I've done my best to ensure that everything is as clear and visible and undistorted as possible, but if there's something you really can't read or see and would like to have clarified, just let me know and I'll see what more I can do. I've set the images up so that if you click on them, they'll link you to their flickr page, where you'll be able to enlarge them all considerably and thus more easily read each one. Enjoy!

 

"Fig. 1st. - Walking-dress of pale fawn-colored mousseline, trimmed with buttons in clusters, or rather clustering rows, down the skirt, upon the corsage and sleeves.  Deep lace ruffles falling over the hand.  Drawn bonnet, of white silk and lace.

 

Fig. 2d. - Walking-dress of steel-colored Cashmere, the skirt trimmed with rows of black velvet ribbon, nearly a foot in depth.  The corsage is arranged in the same style, as will be seen from the demi-loose sleeve.  A small mantle of the same description covers the shoulders, the front being profusely ornamented.  Bonnet of black satin mixed with lace, and purple satin bows.  Noeuds of the same inside the brim." 

 

"Fig. 1st. - Dinner-dress of plaid soie, in imitation of a tartan: broad sash of ribbon to correspond.  Low corsage, and berthe capes: hair in heavy ringlets.

 

Fig. 2d. - Dress of mode-colored silk, suitable for a matron; cape of French embroidery; headdress of velvet and gold lace.

 

Fig. 3d. - Dress of blue brocade, with low corsage and demi long sleeves, covered by a lace canezou.  Headdress of lace and ribbon.

 

Fig. 4th. - Dress of sea-green poult de soie; the corsage and skirt trimmed with ruches of the same en V.  Chemisette of Honiton lace in points.  Hair in heavy Grecian bands."

The pattern for a "Parisian purse."

 

Chemisettes and capes (see full description below)

 

"Fig. 1st. - As many ladies who, for convenience or lightness of dress, wear low corsages in the evening, do not like to leave the neck entirely exposed, we give a new style, or rather form, of pelerine, in embroidered muslin, the edges waved or scalloped, so as to give a glimpse of the figure from the throat to the waist.  There is a very style style edged with Valenciennes instead of the worked points.  The collar to be fastened by a knot of some bight-colored satin ribbon, suiting or contrasting with the wearer's dress or complexion.

 

Fig. 2d. - A cambric basque, intended for a breakfast dress, with some pretty skirt.  It will be found a convenient fashion to use up those that have had the waists condemned as too much worn.  It is made quite plainly, with edges and chemisette of cambric flouncing, and may be sent to the common wash."

 

Pattern for an appliqued lady's cravate.

 

"Braiding - coral pattern for white muslin dress" to decorate the

flounces (see description below)

 

"To be braided with fine scarlet worsted braid; copy the design on tissue paper, tack the paper pattern on material, sew on the braid by the pattern, then teat away the paper carefully."

 

Braid patterns for aprons and an embroidery pattern

for a muslin chemisette or undersleeves.

If you'd like to use or re-post or share these images, you're certainly welcome to do so. The only thing we ask is that credit is given where due: please provide a link back to this blog with the re-posted picture. Thanks!